How to Make an Asphalt Driveway — Milling & Install Guide

Overview & when to use milling

This article explains a hands-on method to make an asphalt driveway with a focus on milling (removing an existing asphalt surface) when appropriate. Milling is used when the existing pavement is structurally sound below the surface or when you want to recycle the removed asphalt (Reclaimed Asphalt Pavement, RAP). The guide covers planning, safety, tools, step-by-step milling and installation, and maintenance tips.

Tools, equipment & materials needed

A successful asphalt driveway requires the right equipment and materials. For small residential jobs you may rent many items. Below are the essentials.

Heavy equipment & power tools

• Asphalt miller (cold planer) or milling contractor — for removing old asphalt in controlled depth layers.
• Skid steer or small excavator — for hauling material and minor excavation.
• Plate compactor and vibratory roller — for compacting base and asphalt.
• Asphalt paver (rented) or experienced paving crew — for even laydown on larger drives.

Materials

• Crushed stone or aggregate base (typically 3/4" crush) — for a stable base layer.
• Asphalt mix (hot mix asphalt) — choose the correct grade for local climate and traffic.
• Tack coat (asphalt emulsion) — for bonding new asphalt to milled or existing base.
• Edge restraint materials (concrete curbing or compacted aggregate) and drainage fittings.

Site assessment and planning

Before starting, inspect the existing surface, measure lengths and widths, check for utility lines, and calculate material quantities. Key checks: are cracks confined to the surface or is there base failure? Is there adequate slope (minimum 1% recommended) for drainage? If there is extensive base failure, you may need full-depth replacement rather than milling and overlay.

Permits, utilities, and safety

• Call utility-locate services to mark underground lines before any cutting or excavation.
• Obtain local permits if required and follow stormwater/drainage rules for runoff control.
• Plan traffic control and protect adjacent landscaping and structures from debris and equipment.

Site preparation and excavation

Prepare the site by removing obstacles, trimming back vegetation, and establishing grade stakes. If you are milling an existing driveway, clean loose debris first. If constructing new, excavate to the designed depth (typical total depth: 8–12 inches for residential, varying by expected loads).

Base thickness and compaction targets

• Light residential: 6–8 inches aggregate base (compact to 95% Modified Proctor equivalence).
• Driveways with frequent heavy vehicles: increase base to 10–12 inches.

Asphalt milling: how to remove the existing surface

Milling removes specified thickness of asphalt quickly and provides a clean, textured surface for overlay. Work with a rental mill or a contractor for best results. Typical mill depths are 1/2" to 2" per pass depending on machine and condition.

Step-by-step milling procedure

• Mark the driveway limits and set grade control (string lines, laser or stakes).
• Run the mill in controlled passes, removing no more than the machine/recommended depth per pass.
• Collect milled material: RAP can be hauled away, stockpiled for reuse, or sold to a recycler.
• Inspect the exposed base/subgrade for signs of failure and repair localized issues.

Important: milling exposes edges and utility covers — protect them and coordinate adjustments if needed. Milling also creates dust and small particles: use water suppression or vacuum attachments when required by local regulations.

Base construction, grading & drainage

A stable, well-graded base is the most important factor for a long-lasting driveway. After milling or excavation, fix any soft spots, install geotextile fabric where needed, then place aggregate in layers and compact thoroughly.

Layering and compaction procedure

• Place 3–4 inch lifts of crushed aggregate, compacting each lift with a vibratory roller or plate compactor.
• Confirm final grade and cross-slope for positive drainage (minimum 1% slope away from structures).
• Install sub-surface drainage or culverts where run-off concentrates to prevent undermining the base.

Paving: mixing, laying, and compaction

Paving should occur on a dry day with temperatures allowing for hot mix asphalt placement. Use a reputable plant mix and work quickly — hot mix must be compacted while warm for maximum density.

Paving steps

• Apply tack coat to bond new asphalt to the milled surface or existing mat.
• Set screed or paver to the required thickness — residential driveways often have 1.5–3 inches compacted lift for resurfacing, 2–3 inches per layer for final wearing course.
• Compact immediately using a steel drum roller, then follow with a pneumatic roller if available to remove voids and achieve a smooth surface.

Edging, joints, and drainage details

Proper edge support and joint construction prevent longitudinal cracking and loss of material. Use concrete curbs or compacted aggregate restraints where needed, and construct transverse joints at logical breaks (driveway-to-street, expansion areas).

Edge and joint best practices

• Compact the asphalt at edges with a hand tamper or small roller and ensure edge restraint is solid.
• Seal transverse joints with hot-pour joint sealant to reduce water infiltration.

Finishing work, curing, and sealing

Allow the pavement to cool and cure before opening to traffic. Light traffic can often resume within 24–48 hours depending on mix and ambient temperature, but full compaction and adhesion continue over time.

Sealing and striping

• Do not apply sealcoat until the asphalt is fully cured (typically 6–12 months for new pavement in many climates).
• Mark lines or add decorative finishes only after curing and once the surface is free of loose aggregate.

Maintenance schedule and troubleshooting

Routine maintenance extends pavement life. Inspect annually for cracks, drainage problems, or edge deterioration. Address issues early to avoid costly full-depth repairs.

Common problems and fixes

• Alligator cracking: indicates base failure — requires removal of failed area and base repair before repaving.
• Potholes: cut to sound edges, clean, fill with hot mix and compact in layers.
• Edge raveling: add edge restraint and compact; consider overlay or edge grind with a mill for a clean tie-in.

Quick reference: mill types, typical costs & timelines

Final checklist before opening driveway

• Confirm final compaction and smoothness (no loose aggregate or roller marks).
• Verify drainage flows away from structures and that gutters/culverts are clear.
• Allow recommended curing time before heavy loads; document warranty/maintenance schedule if using a contractor.

Following these steps will help you create a durable asphalt driveway whether you're performing a surface overlay after milling or building new pavement from scratch. When in doubt about structural issues or large equipment operation, consult or hire a qualified paving contractor.